Monday, August 13, 2007

Jewish Moroccan cooking.


photo: Angela Brkic
"In Morocco, Jewish cooking is still rated as one of the four best styles in the country, on the level of those of Fez, Tetouan and Marrakech." -Claudia Roden

When we came across a restaurant review which included the quote above, we began wondering is the great Claudia Roden right? We would love to hear what you think. Here is part of the review of an Australian restaurant. the reviewer was Helen Greenwood. It was published in the Sydney Morning Herald and described the cuisine as "middle-eastern" - oops.

Moroccan Feast suggests an evening of home-cooked abundance, redolent with spices, full of "contrast and surprises", to quote the wonderful food writer Claudia Roden. But the voice on the phone sounds more Israeli than North African.

Unable to resist, I put the question.
"Yes," says the voice, which belongs to Yariv Rozen, "I'm from Israel but my father came from Morocco and I also have two Jewish Moroccan ladies in the kitchen."

So what is the difference between Moroccan and Moroccan-Jewish food?
"It's all Jewish," Rozen says. He's only partly joking.

Roden says: "In Morocco, Jewish cooking is still rated as one of the four best styles in the country, on the level of those of Fez, Tetouan and Marrakech."


Moroccan Feast may be Jewish at heart but its decor is very much Marrakech. There are mosaic-tiled table tops and mosaic-style painted plates on the walls. Spice-coloured fabrics cover the banquettes, delicate metal fretwork frames mirrors and make wall sconces.
Coloured lanterns hang from the ceilings and wrought-iron screens are on the floor.


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7 comments:

Anonymous said...

If you all want to experience the awesome Moroccan Jewish food in Israel,do come visit Israel on Mimounah (the festival starts at the end of Pesach/Passover).

Mimounah is celebrated in many cities in Israel by hundreds of thousands of Israelis and visitors

Here more info

lady macleod said...

sounds good, but I have not been to the restaurant so I cannot say..

islandgirl4ever2 said...

Interesting!! Is this different from Jewish Israeli food? Does it have more of a Moroccan flare to it??

weepy said...

Been there and loved it !!!

the place looks just like little Marrakesh in Morocco.
the food , the ambiance the all deal is a great expirience.
as Hellen greenwood said that it is a good value for your money.

Anonymous said...

Moroccan Feast in Randwick is the best Moroccan you will eat in Sydney (or maybe even in Australia). So glad we went there. It's intimate with a real focus on tradition, warmth and flavour. Real Moroccan and real value for money.

Unknown said...

On the off chance that someone will be able to help me, is there anyone who has recommendations for places to eat Jewish Moroccan food IN Morocco? Tajine and couscous fatigue has remained since my last visit, and being vegetarian, we would LOVE some specific recommendations for where we might find the jewish alternative! Thank you in advance for your help...

Helen Ranger said...

Hello Jen
Here's what Jennifer of Dar Roumana has to say in response to your quest:
"Thats a hard one....Jewish AND vegetarian! I can't recommend specific restaurants, but I know that Essaouira is considered to be the epicenter of Jewish Moroccan cuisine. There used to be (and maybe still is, but I have never been able to find any details about) a Jewish Moroccan Culinary Festival in Essaouira. Claudia Roden´s book might give more information."
The Maimonides Jewish club in Fez has good food, particularly their salad starters, though my understanding is that these days it's for members only.
Sorry we can't be of more help, but let us know what you find.